Hakone Day Trip From Tokyo: Our Loop With Lake Ashi, the Ropeway and Black Eggs
How to do the classic Hakone loop in a day from Tokyo: Hakone Freepass prices for 2026, the best direction to avoid queues, Lake Ashi, Owakudani's black eggs and Mt. Fuji views.
Hakone is the perfect day trip from Tokyo: a mountain resort of hot springs, volcanic valleys and a crater lake, with Mount Fuji on the horizon on a clear day. You can travel the whole area in a loop using trains, a mountain railway, a cable car, a ropeway, a lake cruise and buses, all on one pass.
We went in autumn for koyo, the Japanese tradition of admiring red and gold autumn leaves, which in Hakone is as celebrated as cherry blossom season in spring. The queues at the start of the classic loop were so long that we did it the other way round, and it was the best decision of the day.
Here is our route, the current Hakone Freepass prices and our tips for a smooth day.
Quick answer: Buy the Hakone Freepass from Shinjuku (¥7,100 for 2 days in 2026, the Romancecar costs about ¥1,110 extra each way). Do the loop counter-clockwise: bus from Hakone-Yumoto to Moto-Hakone, walk the cedar avenue to the Hakone Checkpoint, cruise across Lake Ashi, take the ropeway over Owakudani, then the cable car and Tozan railway back down. Allow a full day.
Getting there and the Hakone Freepass
Odakyu trains run from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, the gateway to Hakone, in about 1.5–2 hours. The comfortable Romancecar limited express is faster and needs a seat reservation (about ¥1,110 extra each way).
The Hakone Freepass covers the round trip from Shinjuku plus unlimited rides on eight transport networks in the Hakone area: the Hakone Tozan Railway, cable car, ropeway, Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise and local buses. It also gives small discounts at many attractions.
| Freepass (2026) | From Shinjuku | From Odawara |
|---|---|---|
| 2 days, adult | ¥7,100 | ¥6,000 |
| 3 days, adult | ¥7,500 | ¥6,400 |
| 2 days, child (6–11) | ¥1,600 | ¥1,500 |
The basic loop costs around ¥7,800 if you buy each ticket separately, so the pass pays for itself on a single loop. Prices change occasionally, so check with Odakyu before you buy.
Our Hakone loop, step by step
1. Bus to Moto-Hakone
From Hakone-Yumoto, the classic route goes up on the mountain railway to Gora first, and that is where the long queues form. Instead, we took the bus straight to Moto-Hakone on Lake Ashi (about 40 minutes).
2. Old Cedar Avenue
In 1618 the Edo shogunate planted cedar trees along the old Tokaido road to protect travellers from sun and snow. About 2 km of the avenue remains, a beautiful, shady walk between giant trees. It is free.
3. Onshi-Hakone Park (former Detached Palace)
On a small peninsula, the former summer palace of the imperial family is now a park with a viewing terrace over Lake Ashi, and on clear days, Mount Fuji. Entry is free.
4. Hakone Checkpoint (Sekisho)
In the Edo period, the shogunate controlled travel through 53 checkpoints. Hakone was the most important, built to stop weapons going into Edo (Tokyo) and, curiously, to stop women leaving it. The reconstructed checkpoint and museum show what life was like here. The Freepass gives a small discount.
5. Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise
Lake Ashi was formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. The sightseeing boats from Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi to Togendai are included in the Freepass. On a clear day, Mount Fuji rises above the far shore. The Freepass covers the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise, the famous "pirate ships"; boats run by other companies on the lake are not included.
6. Hakone Ropeway to Owakudani
From Togendai, the ropeway glides over forests and steaming hillsides to Owakudani, a volcanic valley full of sulphur vents. If volcanic activity closes the ropeway, replacement buses run between Togendai and Sounzan, and the Freepass is valid on them. Check the status on the Hakone Navi website before you go.
7. Black eggs at Owakudani
Owakudani's famous snack: eggs boiled in the hot volcanic springs, which turn their shells black. Legend says each one adds seven years to your life. We ate ours and are counting on it.
8. Cable car and Tozan railway back down
Continue by ropeway to Sounzan, the cable car down to Gora, and the zigzagging Hakone Tozan Railway back to Hakone-Yumoto, a lovely ride through the forest, especially in autumn and during hydrangea season in June.
Extra stops if you have more time
- Hakone Open-Air Museum near Gora, with sculptures in a park and a Picasso pavilion.
- Hakone Shrine, with its red torii gate standing in Lake Ashi.
- An onsen (hot spring bath) in Hakone-Yumoto to end the day.
Tips for your Hakone day trip
- Start early and go counter-clockwise to avoid the morning queues at Hakone-Yumoto and Gora.
- Check the weather: Mount Fuji is often hidden by clouds, especially in summer. Winter and autumn mornings have the best views.
- Autumn leaves peak around mid-November; it is beautiful but busy.
- Stay overnight in a ryokan with an onsen if you can; the 2-day Freepass makes it easy.
Sources checked: Hakone Free Pass guide 2026. Official info: Odakyu and Hakone Navi.
About the authors
Dasza — Writer and photographer behind PTraveler. Polish-born, raised in Germany, happiest renting a flat in a new city for a month.
Tomek — Project manager, fixer and tour leader. Plans the routes, finds the free days and tests every street-food stall.
